Colognoisseur 2016 Year-End Review Part 1- Overview


2016 will probably go down as a pivotal year in the perfume business. As an observer of much of the field this year I have seen change in almost every place I can see. Which leads me to believe it is also taking place behind the scenes where I am not able to know the entire story. Change like this can be unsettling which has made for some worrying trends but overall I think it has contributed to another excellent year. I smelled a little less this year than last year; 680 new perfumes versus 2015’s 686. Surprisingly the amount of new releases has also plateaued with 1566 new releases in 2016 versus 1676 last year. Maybe we have defined the amount of new perfume the market can bear. Over the next three days I will share my thoughts on the year coming to an end.

We are told in Ecclesiastes, or by The Byrds if you prefer; “To every thing there is a season” and so it is in perfume as the season of the Baby Boomers has ended and the Millennials have taken over. This younger generation is now larger, has more discretionary income, and is spending more on perfume than the Boomers are per multiple sources. While the public at large was made aware of it this year the industry could see the change coming a year, or more, prior. What that meant for 2016 as far as fragrance went was every corporate perfume entity was on a fishing expedition to see if they could be the one who lured this group of consumers towards them. The drive for this is huge because lifelong brand loyalties can be formed right now within this group. Certainly, the enduring trends of the next few years in fragrance will be determined by where they spend their money. All of that has made 2016 fascinating because at the end of the year that answer is no clearer than it was at the beginning. The prevailing themes, based on what was provided to them, is they want lighter in sillage and aesthetic, gourmand, and different. That last category is the ephemeral key I think. The brand which can find them in the place where they Periscope, Snapchat, and Instagram is going to have an advantage.

Christine Nagel (l.) and Olivier Polge

There was also generational change taking place at two of the most prestigious perfume brands, Hermes and Chanel. The new in-house perfumers for both took full control in 2016. Christine Nagel released Hermes Eau du Rhubarbe Ecarlate and Galop D’Hermes. Olivier Polge released Chanel Boy and Chanel No. 5 L’Eau. This shows both talented artists know how to take an existing brand aesthetic and make it their own.

Cecile Zarokian, Quentin Bisch, Luca Maffei (l. to r.)

The next generation of perfumers exemplified by Cecile Zarokian, Quentin Bisch, and Luca Maffei loomed large this year. Mme Zarokian did thirteen new releases in 2016 all of them distinctively delightful from the re-formulation of Faths Essentials Green Water to the contemporary Oriental Puredistance Sheiduna. M. Bisch brilliantly reinvented one of the masterpieces of perfume in Thierry Mugler Angel Muse. Sig. Maffei released ten new fragrances with Masque Milano L’Attesa, Laboratorio Olfattivo MyLO, and Jul et Mad Secrets du Paradis Rouge showcasing his range. 

There were also fascinating collaborations this year. Antonio Gardoni and Bruno Fazzolari contributed Cadavre Exquis an off-beat gourmand. Josh Meyer and Sam Rader conspired to create a Northern California Holiday bonfire in Dasein Winter Nights. Victor Wong the owner and creative director of Zoologist Perfumes was able to get the most out of independent perfumers like Ellen Covey in Bat and Sarah McCartney in Macaque.

Some of the independent perfumers I look to surprisingly released perfumes which did not please me. Thankfully there were new ones who stepped up to fill in the gap. Lesli Wood Peterson of La Curie, Ludmila and Antoine Bitar of Ideo Parfumeurs, and Eugene & Emrys Au of Auphorie did that. Chritsti Meshell of House of Matriarch made an ambitious economic move into Nordstrom while producing two of my favorites from her in Albatross and Kazimi.

The mainstream sector had another strong year as the mall continues to have diamonds hidden amongst the dross. In 2016 that meant Elizabeth & James Nirvana Bourbon, Alford & Hoff No. 3, SJP Stash, Prada Infusion de Mimosa, Thierry Mugler Angel Muse, and Chanel No. 5 L’Eau were there to be found.

If the beginning of the year was all about rose the overall year was a renaissance for neroli perfumes. Jean-Claude Ellena’s swan song for Hermes; Eau de Neroli Dore. The afore mentioned Green Water along with Jo Malone Basil & Neroli and Hiram Green Dilettante showed the versatility of the note.

The acquisition of niche brands continued with Estee Lauder buying By Kilian and L’Oreal doing the same with Atelier Cologne. The acquisitions of Frederic Malle and Le Labo, two years ago, seem to have been positive steps for both brands. Especially seeing Le Labo in my local mall getting such a positive reception made me believe that if the good niche brands can become more available the consumer will appreciate the difference.

Tomorrow I will name my Perfume, Perfumer, Creative Director, and Brand of the Year

The next day I will reveal my Top 25 New Releases of 2016.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Dasein Autumn- Red Hots Aweigh

It usually takes somewhere between four and six releases for me to get a real handle on what an independent perfume brand is all about. By that time if there is an aesthetic forming it should have revealed itself. The perfumer begins to find their footing a little more firmly. It is like watching a maturation process of the artistic endeavor. The latest example of an indie perfumer who has grown her brand rapidly is Samantha Rader of Dasein.

Ms. Rader has been making fragrances based on the seasons starting with 2013’s Winter, followed by Spring a year later and Summer earlier in 2015. Which leaves the recent arrival of Autumn. Ms. Rader seems to enjoy designing perfumes which carry a provocative, perhaps challenging, nature front and center. Winter was formed around a specific pine oil she sourced. Spring was an exquisite turned earth accord. Summer was the most risk-taking as she featured cilantro. Autumn is a fiery cinnamon bark at the center of things.

Sam Rader

Samantha Rader

Cinnamon is one of those notes which when used in most perfumes is as part of a mélange of spices to add a bit of heat. More often, if it is featured, it is kept on a very short leash so as not to remind one of Red Hots candy. One thing I am pretty sure of now after four releases Ms. Rader does not own a leash of any kind when she has an ingredient she wants to feature. She takes cinnamon bark and embraces the confectionary character. Her challenge is to find other partners to make sure this doesn’t descend into sugary banality. It doesn’t.

Just like all the previous releases the focal point is in place from the first second to the final moments. In the case of Autumn it is cinnamon bark. It is also cinnamon bark in such a concentration as to feel completely like a box of Red Hots you just opened. The note list says there is coffee here but I never detect it not even for a fleeting moment. If it is here Ms. Rader must be using it to modulate the cinnamon but not as a specific note. After a decent amount of time she does reveal that incense and leather are what she wants to find an equilibrium with the cinnamon bark. There is a bit of a rough spot as these three very distinct notes struggle to find that balance. Once it happens it is a fabulous heart accord. The animalic of the leather and the resins of the incense are a foundation for the cinnamon bark to ride on top of. When they find their synchronicity it roars with power. Ms. Rader wants even a little more and so for the last two ingredients she adds a mixture of ambergris and oud. The oud attaches to the leather making it more primal in nature. The ambergris achieves a wonderfully briny transformation of the incense. As these two ingredients take hold the foundation of Autumn finds a whole new gear over the final stretch.

Autumn has 8-10 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

Autumn brings the first cycle of Ms. Rader’s independent perfume to a close. It shows a young perfumer who will embrace that which others shy away from. It makes me even more eager to see what her next set of inspirations will be. For the short term I am going to enjoy wearing something Red Hot when the weather turns cooler.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Twisted Lily.

Mark Behnke