Another of the things that bother me about all the spring rose perfumes is they are so myopic. It seems like all they can imagine as representing spring is a dewy rose garden. There is so much more than that to the season. My favorite part is to get out in my hiking boots and go squelching through the local fields. By the time, the poodles and I get home we have shared grins from being back outdoors. The burgeoning green is also a typical scent for this time of year. Oriza L. Legrand Scotch Lavander goes out on a vernal walkabout without a rose in sight.
Hugo Lambert (l.) and Franck Belaiche
Oriza L. Legrand is a perfume brand I need to remind myself to pay more attention to. Back in 2012 Franck Belaiche and Hugo Lambert resurrected the brand. Through a lot of research they recreated the original perfumes. Where my admiration grew was their ability to find modern equivalents to ingredients in those recipes that were unavailable. It remains one of the best heritage house collections to date. As they have moved through the intervening years, they have found a fascinating way of adding a contemporary component to the classical construction. In Scotch Lavander it takes us to the heaths of Scotland where the lavender is in bloom.
I want greener from my spring perfumes. The top accord is as close to that desire as I can imagine. It is a simple combination of lavender, thyme, and bergamot. The lavender in the early moments is that herbal version which I like. The thyme keeps it to that side of things. The bergamot acts like sunlight through the water droplets on the spears of lavender. Just a hint of citric sparkle. It moves greener for a moment as vetiver and geranium pick up the top accord. Then a powderier lavender begins to cover things. This is a beautifully realized transition as the keynote floral completely changes faces. It evolves further into a warm base of tonka, amber, and benzoin. This slightly sweet ambery accord combines with the lavender in a comfortable embrace.
Scotch Lavander has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
I have never been to Scotland nor trod a heath. It does fit my imagination of what I think it might smell like. It is close enough to my spring squelches through the farm fields which is my kind of seasonal perfume.
Disclosure: this review is based on a sample I purchased.
–Mark Behnke
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