We have had about five years of the big perfume brands assessing what the new younger demographic wants. There are some trends which are beginning to take a firmer hold. The most important is for a lighter perfume experience. The biggest sellers among this group of consumers are all transparent. There does seem to be a threshold. You can’t become so ephemeral to be invisible.
There is an experiment I would like to run among these types of perfume lovers. I’d like to see their reaction to the original Thierry Mugler Angel. This is the beginning of gourmand style perfumes, but it is miles away from opaque. This is an unrelenting aesthetic which was part of the Thierry Mugler fragrance DNA for a decade or more. My suspicion is these new perfume users would back away slowly. Which is why what the brand has done since 2016 has been so remarkable.
Starting with 2016’s Angel Muse they took that DNA and turned it into something more on trend. Perfumer Quentin Bisch would lay down the path to be followed. Keep the gourmand but make lighter substitutions up and down the pyramid. It has begun a winning streak which has seen Angel Eau Croisiere, Angel Eau Croisiere 2, and Angel Nova follow at the beginning of every summer. Angel Iced Star is the latest addition to that.
M. Bisch is joined by perfumer Louise Turner behind this. I have spoken a lot about the lightness but there is one more essential ingredient to these, fun. There hasn’t been an annual release which has done a better job of that vibe of being on holiday drinking cocktails with umbrellas in them. Angel Iced Star adds pina colada to the drink selection.
Frozen pina coladas are one of my favorite beach chair cocktails. The opening of this captures it as icy coconut and pineapple are slurried together. There is a frostiness that is refreshing in the warm temperatures. Part of this recent success has been not to abandon the Angel DNA but to update it. What it means is the praline part and the patchouli piece of the original remain. Except the perfumers have some more leeway with both. The patchouli is a less intense fraction one where the chocolate-like quality is toned down. The praline gives that caramel a doughier scent profile. It means that chocolate caramel is still there but in different guises. It is what has made these current Angel evolutions so good.
Angel Iced Star has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.
It seems like this might become an every year beginning of summer tradition. Angel Iced Star belongs in your beach bag to take away for your weekend getaway. It is the ideal way to get your mind in the right place to have fun.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample supplied by Thierry Mugler.