Colognoisseur Best of 2021 Part 3: The Top 35 New Perfumes of the Year


To begin with the context of the list, I tried 621 new perfumes since January 1, 2021. That is about a third of all new perfume released during the same time frame. The list below is the best 5.6% of those I got to try. As you see in the title it has expanded a bit from the usual Top 25. I found that when I looked back, I had a tight list of 35 I was pleased with. I decided to make them all worthy of the main list with no Honorable Mentions this time around.

The Top 10 (Perfume of the Year candidates)

10, Diptyque Kyoto– The best of the four perfumes in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the brand. The magic of beetroot, and perfumer Alexandra Carlin turns this into a stunning fragrance.

9. Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle– Perfumer Anne Flipo turned in a sappy green thicket of a perfume.

8. Zoologist Chipmunk– Creative Director Victor Wong and perfumer Pia Long create a modern interpretation of those classic woody masculine perfumes of decades ago.

7. Azman Two Minutes After the Kiss– You might think there is nothing new in an oud-rose perfume. Perfumer Cristiano Canali will make you think again.

6. Masque Milano Lost Alice– Creative Directors Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi team-up with perfumer Mackenzie Reilly for a gourmand inspired by Alice’s Tea Party.

5, Francesca Bianchi Luxe Calme VolupteFrancesca Bianchi lives on the edge in her perfume making. This time it is the edge of sensual passion in this year’s sexiest fragrance.

4, Puredistance No. 12– Creative director Jan Ewoud Vos told me to give perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer’s perfume time to mature. When it did a magnificent powdery chypre was there to enjoy.

3. Rubini NuvolariAndrea Rubini and his creative team including perfumer Cristiano Canali take you for a drive on an F1 track all the way through the checkered flag.

2. Amouage Material– Creative director Renaud Salmon and perfumer Cecile Zarokian turn in the most audacious gourmand of the year using the tritest of ingredients, vanilla. By turning it inside out and back again they define something entirely new.

1. Amouage Silver Oud– All the reasons are in yesterday’s Perfume of the Year post. The short version: M. Salmon and Mme Zarokian made me care about oud again.

The Rest of the Top 35 in Alphabetical Order

Aesop Eremia– The apocalypse has never seemed so appealing.

Aftelier Perfumes Joie de VertMandy Aftel uses a vintage anise hyssop in a hymn to green.

Anatole Lebreton Racine Carre– This perfume is the answer to, “What is the square root of licorice?”

April Aromatics Wild Summer Crush– The exuberance of the summer and the possibilities of love explode on my skin with joy.

Chanel Paris-EdimbourgOlivier Polge is creating his own niche at Chanel with the Les Eaux. This is the best of them, so far.

Chris Collins African Rooibos– The best tea-inspired perfume of 2021.

Comme des Garcons Ganja– Everything Comme des Garcons has done well for thirty years, and counting is right here.

Diptyque Venise– This reminds you that Venice is not just water and canals. It is also the gardens on the islands.

DS & Durga St. Vetyver– I hear Jimmy Buffet in my head every time I wear this.

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Iris– Sometimes things are simple. Geza Schoen adds iris to Iso E Super. It is as good as it gets.

Freddie Albrighton Mabel’s Tooth– The most fun I had with a perfume all year from a new independent perfumer.

Hedonik Divine PerversionFrancesca Bianchi’s leather line has a perfume to match.

La Curie GeistLesli Wood finds the wood smoke hanging in the pine trees.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Vanagloria– This is a version of a vanilla throw blanket from Dominique Ropion.

Maison Crivelli Lys SolabergNathalie Feisthauer takes you to summer in the Great White North as the lilies bloom.

Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajad– Perfumer Quentin Bisch creates a red-colored gemstone floral.

Milano Fragranze Diurno– The best of the new line by creative director Alessandro Brun. Perfumer Julie Masse uses a brilliant Amaretto accord to call up the echoes of the Lost Generation.

Naomi Goodsir Corpus Equus– Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour forms a horsehair leather fragrance.

Parfum d’Empire Mal-AimeMarc-Antoine Corticchiato can make perfume from anything, including weeds.

Phoenecia Perfume Oud Elegance Rose and Oud Elegance Incense– Perfumer David Falsberg gave two visions of no BS oud. Both are enhanced by the ingenious use of a hyraceum tinctured alcohol.

Sarah Baker Loudo– This combination of a cherry cordial and oud was as compelling as it got.

Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac– This was the perfume which made Fabrice Croise’s concept come to gourmand life under perfumer Pascal Gaurin.

Shalini Fleur JaponaisShalini and perfumer Maurice Roucel make a delicate artistic perfume.

Tom Ford Private Blend Ebene Fume Rodrigo Flores-Roux wakes up the echoes of the early days of the brand.

Zoologist Snowy Owl– At the end of last year I eagerly awaited this collaboration between Victor Wong and perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Snowy Owl was even better than I could have imagined.

That’s a wrap for 2021. I’m looking forward to what 2022 has in store.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Freddie Albrighton Bernadette Margaret Evelyn Theresa, Boys, and Mabel’s Tooth- Honest Perspective

I have looked on with interest as those who write or make videos on perfume move into making perfume. There have been enough that I consider successes that I think I know the most important piece, honesty. The good fragrances which have come out of this have almost uniformly been created with a genuine perspective born from experience. Freddie Albrighton made his first move towards making perfume collaborating with Antonio Gardoni on two versions of Doleur. Mr. Albrighton’s vision was obvious throughout both perfumes. Earlier this year he announced he was releasing his own collection: Freddie Albrighton Bernadette Margaret Evelyn Theresa, Boys, and Mabel’s Tooth. It also showcases his desire to follow his own path.

Freddie Albrighton

Bernadette Margaret Evelyn Theresa is his version of the trite fruity floral style. This is not the fresh floral of the mainstream. Mr. Albrighton creates something much denser in effect. The main protagonists are apricot and frangipani. They form a fog of fruit and flower. As I cast about inside of it, I discover a spicy layer of clove, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Each of these spices has characteristic scent profiles. He uses them to add energy to his fruity floral haze. This segues into a patchouli, amber and cedar base accord. These provide a contrasting earthiness and dry woodiness which pushes back against that spicy fruity floral intensity.

Bernadette Margaret Evelyn Theresa is the most accessible of the three releases. If you want a fruity floral with presence, it is a good place to experience Mr. Albrighton’s concepts. I was looking for something less definable. What he serves up is two variations on a gourmand style. I’ve said repeatedly that I am looking for a fragrance to take some chances in this genre. Both provide that.

Boys is the latest attempt at a milky gourmand. In the earliest stages it proceeds straightforwardly. Some sweet berries form a smoothie with creamy milk. Mr. Albrighton adds a candied effect through his use of violet to add a second vector of sweetness with the berries. What I’ve been looking for is a fragrance which will push back against this with panache. That is what happens as the twin tones of leather and latex sandwich the gourmand accord. As I wore this it went back and forth between the scent of shiny rubber latex mutating into a classic biker leather accord. Over time the gourmand accord finds a fantastically weird balance with the rough trade accords. It ends on a suite of white musks lifting it all up.

I’ve had these samples for a couple months. Mabel’s Tooth is the reason I’ve taken so long to write about them. I have been enjoying spending time with it because I’ve found something new with each experience. It is the most complex of these first three. A mesmerizing ride each time.

It opens with the fizz of aldehydes circling a cup of hazelnut flavored coffee. Except this coffee has been in the carafe for a few hours. It has a pronounced bitterness which the hazelnut barely touches. Next comes an overstuffed heart of foodie ingredients. A sticky caramel, the maple syrup of immortelle, a stewed fruit accord, and the golden animalic purr of honey. This is where Mr. Albrighton convinces me of his skill. This would be a difficult balancing act in any perfumer’s hands. What I find pleasing is Mr. Albrighton doesn’t really try to tamp down any of these ingredients. Instead he looks for a place where they can converge. The middle phase of this is so much fun. This is where I got lost in his vision. I was so enthralled it takes the base notes of cedar and animalic musks to bring me back.

Mr. Albrighton has shown himself to be another independent perfumer for whom creativity is his guiding principle. It makes for fragrances which provide an honest perspective.

Disclosure: this review is based on a sample set provided by Freddie Albrighton.

Mark Behnke