Colognoisseur Best of 2021 Part 3: The Top 35 New Perfumes of the Year


To begin with the context of the list, I tried 621 new perfumes since January 1, 2021. That is about a third of all new perfume released during the same time frame. The list below is the best 5.6% of those I got to try. As you see in the title it has expanded a bit from the usual Top 25. I found that when I looked back, I had a tight list of 35 I was pleased with. I decided to make them all worthy of the main list with no Honorable Mentions this time around.

The Top 10 (Perfume of the Year candidates)

10, Diptyque Kyoto– The best of the four perfumes in celebration of the 60th anniversary of the brand. The magic of beetroot, and perfumer Alexandra Carlin turns this into a stunning fragrance.

9. Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Synthetic Jungle– Perfumer Anne Flipo turned in a sappy green thicket of a perfume.

8. Zoologist Chipmunk– Creative Director Victor Wong and perfumer Pia Long create a modern interpretation of those classic woody masculine perfumes of decades ago.

7. Azman Two Minutes After the Kiss– You might think there is nothing new in an oud-rose perfume. Perfumer Cristiano Canali will make you think again.

6. Masque Milano Lost Alice– Creative Directors Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi team-up with perfumer Mackenzie Reilly for a gourmand inspired by Alice’s Tea Party.

5, Francesca Bianchi Luxe Calme VolupteFrancesca Bianchi lives on the edge in her perfume making. This time it is the edge of sensual passion in this year’s sexiest fragrance.

4, Puredistance No. 12– Creative director Jan Ewoud Vos told me to give perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer’s perfume time to mature. When it did a magnificent powdery chypre was there to enjoy.

3. Rubini NuvolariAndrea Rubini and his creative team including perfumer Cristiano Canali take you for a drive on an F1 track all the way through the checkered flag.

2. Amouage Material– Creative director Renaud Salmon and perfumer Cecile Zarokian turn in the most audacious gourmand of the year using the tritest of ingredients, vanilla. By turning it inside out and back again they define something entirely new.

1. Amouage Silver Oud– All the reasons are in yesterday’s Perfume of the Year post. The short version: M. Salmon and Mme Zarokian made me care about oud again.

The Rest of the Top 35 in Alphabetical Order

Aesop Eremia– The apocalypse has never seemed so appealing.

Aftelier Perfumes Joie de VertMandy Aftel uses a vintage anise hyssop in a hymn to green.

Anatole Lebreton Racine Carre– This perfume is the answer to, “What is the square root of licorice?”

April Aromatics Wild Summer Crush– The exuberance of the summer and the possibilities of love explode on my skin with joy.

Chanel Paris-EdimbourgOlivier Polge is creating his own niche at Chanel with the Les Eaux. This is the best of them, so far.

Chris Collins African Rooibos– The best tea-inspired perfume of 2021.

Comme des Garcons Ganja– Everything Comme des Garcons has done well for thirty years, and counting is right here.

Diptyque Venise– This reminds you that Venice is not just water and canals. It is also the gardens on the islands.

DS & Durga St. Vetyver– I hear Jimmy Buffet in my head every time I wear this.

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Iris– Sometimes things are simple. Geza Schoen adds iris to Iso E Super. It is as good as it gets.

Freddie Albrighton Mabel’s Tooth– The most fun I had with a perfume all year from a new independent perfumer.

Hedonik Divine PerversionFrancesca Bianchi’s leather line has a perfume to match.

La Curie GeistLesli Wood finds the wood smoke hanging in the pine trees.

Laboratorio Olfattivo Vanagloria– This is a version of a vanilla throw blanket from Dominique Ropion.

Maison Crivelli Lys SolabergNathalie Feisthauer takes you to summer in the Great White North as the lilies bloom.

Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajad– Perfumer Quentin Bisch creates a red-colored gemstone floral.

Milano Fragranze Diurno– The best of the new line by creative director Alessandro Brun. Perfumer Julie Masse uses a brilliant Amaretto accord to call up the echoes of the Lost Generation.

Naomi Goodsir Corpus Equus– Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour forms a horsehair leather fragrance.

Parfum d’Empire Mal-AimeMarc-Antoine Corticchiato can make perfume from anything, including weeds.

Phoenecia Perfume Oud Elegance Rose and Oud Elegance Incense– Perfumer David Falsberg gave two visions of no BS oud. Both are enhanced by the ingenious use of a hyraceum tinctured alcohol.

Sarah Baker Loudo– This combination of a cherry cordial and oud was as compelling as it got.

Scents of Wood Plum in Cognac– This was the perfume which made Fabrice Croise’s concept come to gourmand life under perfumer Pascal Gaurin.

Shalini Fleur JaponaisShalini and perfumer Maurice Roucel make a delicate artistic perfume.

Tom Ford Private Blend Ebene Fume Rodrigo Flores-Roux wakes up the echoes of the early days of the brand.

Zoologist Snowy Owl– At the end of last year I eagerly awaited this collaboration between Victor Wong and perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Snowy Owl was even better than I could have imagined.

That’s a wrap for 2021. I’m looking forward to what 2022 has in store.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review Francesca Bianchi Luxe Calme Volupte- Recalibrating First Impressions


There is an old saying that you never get a second chance to make a first impression. As a perfume reviewer who smells hundreds of new releases a year, I think that can be a double-edged sword. Especially in the independent perfumer space. I write all the time about consistent improvement before finding an inflection point where the creativity soars. If my first impression doesn’t allow for that to be seen it is my shortcoming. When it comes to independent perfumer Francesca Bianchi, I think I deprived myself of this pleasure because of that. Francesca Bianchi Luxe Calme Volupte allows me to continue to fix it.

I’ve mentioned this in my reviews, and I think this is why it is such a difficult brand for me. Sig.ra Bianchi makes perfumes I would describe as on the edge of excess. She stands right on a line where just a little bit is going to be too much versus getting the balance just right. Also that line is not the same for every perfume lover. Which is why I applaud her for making the perfume she wants and lets the rest of us decide for ourselves.

Francesca Bianchi

Luxe Calme Volupte is a repeated line from the poet Baudelaire. It translates to Luxury Peace Pleasure. She has created another voluptuous perfume. One which I found full of anticipatory sensuality. It also sits perched on an emotional edge of excess. I see this as a perfume of lovers.

To begin they are feeding each other tangerines. Sig.ra Bianchi uses a very juicy citrus here. This is a wedge shared between two mouths the juice drips onto each person’s chin. Anticipation is built through the insistent green pulsing of galbanum underneath the fruit. It is like a slowly deepening heartbeat. Other fruits are threaded through the early going but it is the citrus and galbanum which are on top.

The heart is all ylang-ylang. I adore this floral for the sensuality it carries. Most perfumers neuter it or restrain it. Whenever I smell my vial of pure essential oil it just oozes carnality. Sig.ra Bianchi is using this type of ylang-ylang. It slinks through the top accord while some orris provides even more depth. This is that moment when you have your hand on the midsection of a lover waiting for permission to move it lower. The anticipation is delightful.

The base accord is a luxurious resinous aftermath of whatever happened before. Benzoin and opoponax sit atop a creamy sandalwood. Vetiver recapitulates the green from the top while harmonizing with the wood in the base. Languidly sprawled in the middle is a sated floral.

Luxe Calme Volupte has 12-14 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

Over the last four releases I have come to realize that Sig.ra Bianchi is among the best independent perfumers we have. I have gone back to re-try her previous releases and learned that I need to pay closer attention to those working at the edges. Given time they might prove to develop into something special. I need to make sure a first impression is not permanent.

As for Luxe Calme Volupte if you are looking for an unabashedly sexy perfume this is it.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.

Mark Behnke