The Perfumers Who Saved Christmas

Back in March when I wrote an editorial on “Perfume in the Time of Coronavirus” I was enjoying the quarantine. I expected it to end in a few months. I was taking the opportunity to enjoy my favorite perfumes with abandon. Each one gave me a shot of needed joy.

As we got to the summer and I was still inside I needed a different kind of booster through fragrance. That came as I spent ten days participating in the Pierre Benard Challenge. This was a big change in perspective for me as I hadn’t examined my connection to scent as deeply. I’m always looking for new things to try. For two weeks I stopped and smelled the world.

Then we got to the fall and the end was not in sight. It was wearing on my mental state. I felt like things would never return to normal. Then a magical thing happened courtesy of some of my favorite independent perfumers. They got me out of my funk because their new releases connected with great memories of my past. I was no longer hemmed in by the four walls of my house.

Frassai El Descanso reminded me of my first cross-country drive as I experienced the wheat fields of the prairie.

DSH Perfumes Tea and Charcoal brought me back to when I discovered a coping mechanism as a child.

Aether Arts Perfume Dia de Muerto had me trick or treating on a tropical S. Florida night.

Maher Olfactive Orris Forest had me hopping over rocks on a hike through the forest.

DSH Perfumes Adrenaline and Scorched Earth put me back on the hiking trail in Yellowstone.

Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato reminded me of a music lesson in a St. Louis jazz club.

Masque Milano Le Donne di Masque Madeleine had me sitting at a tearoom with cakes and hot chocolate.

Imaginary Authors A Whiff of Wafflecone had me in a specialty ice cream shoppe

DSH Perfumes Couverture d’Hiver had the Florida boy remembering his first New England snowstorm.

All of these and more took me out of my quarantine and into the world through the trigger of perfume. It isn’t the design of a perfumer to make their customer find joy through memory. Although it isn’t an undesired side effect.

Now that we do see the beginning of the end, I am full of hope for the next year. If it weren’t for Irina Burlakova, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Amber Jobin, Shawn Maher, Fanny Bal, and Josh Meyer this would have been a dreary Holiday season. They were the perfumers who saved Christmas for me.

I extend my wishes to all my readers for a Merry Christmas. That I have you is another reason this Season remains merry for me.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes Couverture d’Hiver- Chocolate Snow

I think a lot of us are thinking about Christmas’ past without the aid of one of Scrooge’s ghosts. If we can’t be with our loved ones, we can cast back through memory to find happiness. As someone who writes about perfume the ability of scent to trigger memories is powerful. Independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has seemingly had a private line to some of my deepest. Much of her work this year has taken me back to a good memory. It seems only natural that her 2020 Holiday perfume DSH Perfumes Couverture d’Hiver completes the year doing the same.

When I moved to Connecticut for my first job the Florida boy was terrified of what the snow would be like. Driving on it. Dealing with it. I had no frame of reference. The first large snowfall came in January just after the New Year. I was a nervous wreck. I headed to the grocery store and hardware store to get what I was told I would need. As the weatherman on tv was telling me 6-8 inches I was hearing feet.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

I was living in a townhouse complex and I had become friendly with my neighbors. A recently married couple, Alex and Brenda. I was bombarding them with questions. Alex said to just sit back turn on the Christmas tree lights and eat chocolate snow. I asked what that was. He told me you take some Nestles Quik, instant coffee, vanilla, milk, and sugar. Whisk them all together and pour them over some fresh snow. Voila! It turned out to be more effective than a tranquilizer as I sat munching my bowl of frozen goodness next to the Christmas tree. This is where Couverture d’Hiver takes me back to.

This is the twentieth Holiday release from Ms. Hurwitz and she wanted to combine the scent of a snowy walk in the Rockies over a chocolate gourmand accord. Her visual is a bit more prosaic than mine but we end up in the same place of fir, snow, and chocolate.

The wintry fir and snow accord come out of the interaction of pine needle absolute and cedar for the trees. The crunchy snow is formed of ozonic notes, petrichor, and orris. Adjacent to that is a chocolate accord which tilts towards milk chocolate to me. Once it is all in place the smell of chocolate snow and fir trees take me back to my first apartment.

Couverture d’Hiver has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

This is a perfume of comfort right at the end of a year we could use some. You can imagine yourself on a hike in the mountain woods with a hot cocoa in hand. Or you can join me watching the first snowfall with a bowl of chocolate snow next to the Christmas tree. You can’t choose poorly.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample supplied by DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes Adrenaline and Scorched Earth- Solo Hike

Independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has frequently sent me a perfume which unlocks a memory. She might as well be my therapist. One of her latest releases reminded me of a solo hike I took in Yellowstone National Park in 1993. This was one of my bucket items to start in one corner of the park and walk out the opposite corner. It was going to be the longest trek I would take by myself. It was a memorable trip throughout. As I entered the final section, I had to check in to be allowed to continue. The grizzly bears had only recently moved on from their places of hibernation. The other thing about 1993 it was five years after the largest set of fires in the park. I had walked through the charred trunks which were the tombstones of that. What awaited me was one of the most macabre visions I have ever experienced. When I entered the trail beneath the system of caves the bears had slept in it was flanked by burnt trees exuding that smell of charred wood. The remains of the caribou the bears had feasted on were scattered all around. Rib cages pointing at me with their bony fingers. To add to it I looked down at my size 12 hiking boot to see a muddy paw print that was bigger than it. Charred pines, skeletal remains, and evidence of big bears. That cold water feeling of adrenaline rushed down my spine as I breathed in the smell of the burned trees. DSH Perfumes Adrenaline and Scorched Earth reminded me of this.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and I (Back when we could hug)

Ms. Hurwitz uses Adrenaline and Scorched Earth as the final entry in the isolation/meditation series. I have found all these perfumes she has released in this collection this year to achieve that. It started as a response to being closed down because of the pandemic. Each release would remind me there were open spaces galore if I would just take a moment to isolate and meditate. For this perfume she centered it around many people’s favorite meditative scent, a cup of coffee. Specifically she wanted to build it around a cup of “cowboy coffee” loaded with sugar. The method of making coffee while hiking is a simple process of adding grounds to boiling water and then using salt to sink them to the bottom after brewing. You carefully pour out the coffee hopefully leaving the grounds behind. A lot of sugar added to it was always a great way to get me started every morning on the trail. It is this gourmand accord that is what Adrenaline and Scorched Earth is built around.

This is where the perfume begins. It has the great smell of fresh brewed coffee but for a fleeting moment there is the bitterness. A set of sweet modifiers add spoons of metaphorical sugar to blunt that. As it comes together it has the sweet and bitter duality on which you can contemplate while you sip. She keeps the sweetness just on the right side of the line, so it doesn’t become obtrusive. The scorched earth accord is a brilliant synthesis of many of the traditional smoky perfume ingredients used in small amounts. She fuses cade, birch tar, choya ral, and patchouli into a reminder of those burnt trees from my hike. The final part is a vetiver and mate tea version of green which reminded me of the life that was returning under the burnt sentinels.

Adrenaline and Scorched Earth has 8-10 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

I am reasonably certain most of you aren’t going to be thinking of a hike through Yellowstone. What you will encounter is a clever variation on a sweet coffee gourmand with a swirl of gentle smoke and grassy vetiver. It allowed me to escape my sofa and find myself on the trail again.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I received from DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke

 

 

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes Man Root- Symphony of Roots

As a perfume lover who will wear anything the term “masculine floral” seems silly to me. It is taken seriously by the large perfume purveyors. For most of the life of modern perfumery that phrase could be most descriptive of a dirty rose or a lavender fougere. Those were floral fragrances which did not challenge the traditional notions of gender. Almost ten years ago a new floral became part of this men’s floral group, iris. A set of new perfumes used the butched up rooty side of iris over the delicate powdery side. Pairing with other manly ingredients, iris has now been added to the rotation. None of this applies to the more dedicated perfume lover; we will wear any flower any time. Which brings me to DSH Perfumes Man Root which is this concept of masculine floral taken to a different level.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Man Root is the completion of independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Iris Trilogy. Her description on her website says she wanted to make this a celebration of all the root sources in fragrance. What that produces is a perfume of unusual earthiness centered around enhancing the rhizomal nature of iris.

It begins with iris present with its doughy carroty face turned towards the wearer. Like a time lapse video other roots begin to entwine themselves around that. Turmeric, ginseng, and a vegetal green accord. The latter is dubbed a “carrot greens accord”. It has the scent of those carrot tops with soil still clinging to it. It is a delightful complement to the symphony of roots. A floral intermezzo is spearheaded by rose. This is a literal dirty rose as it is covered in earthiness. That quality is deepened through oakmoss and ambrette.

Man Root has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

The entire composition is very dry, and I was having trouble finding a way to describe it. Mrs. C asked me what I was wearing one of the days I wore this. She said it reminded her of her grandmother’s root cellar just as everything had been put into storage for the winter. Not a lot of root cellars in Florida so I had no frame of reference. Once she said it though I thought the idea of an earthen floored cellar containing roots was probably a good description. As for the masculine floral that is here but only for those who have begun to venture outside of the offerings at the mall. For those people this will be a revelation.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes L’Or(ris)- Dreamy Iris

One of the many things I enjoy about independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is this. Inspiration for the next perfume she designs comes from everywhere. Museum installations, designing jewelry, the Boulder Colorado community she lives in; if she encounters it a perfume may arise. It is why it seems pedestrian that one of her latest inspirations was a dream. It makes no difference because Ms. Hurwitz took that and created DSH Perfumes L’Or(ris).

L’Or(ris) is part two of her Iris Trilogy. Part one was Iris Tuxedo which matched plum with orris butter over an animalic musk. If there is a perfume ingredient Ms. Hurwitz and I have spent the most time talking about it is probably iris. One of the reasons is because it is so malleable without losing its presence. A perfumer can take what is there in the best iris sources and choose what they want to accentuate. What makes L’Or(ris) so good is both the powdery and the rooty strike an appealing balance.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

The way Ms. Hurwitz describes her dream is this, “A beautiful iris, like an apparition, appears… its velvet petals unfurl to reveal it’s gilded edges.  The sparkling, golden iris floats, fluttering both silk and velvet, emitting its beautifully creamy, powdery, floral and yes, enigmatic, perfume.”

When orris is used it has always had a golden quality to my nose. What Ms. Hurwitz achieves is to solidify that association. It provides new perspective to the venerable ingredient.

She adds fizz to the early moments through aldehydes and a prosecco accord she has developed. This has the effect of high-quality champagne providing a golden pool of bubbles for the iris to float upon. The powdery face of iris comes first. It glides though the bubbles in a silky swoosh. Rose and jasmine come along to provide some floral support. They also serve as transitional notes as the doughy rooty part of iris is on its way. If the top accord was of golden champagne this is the gold of buttery fresh-baked bread. Using a set of woods the rhizomal nature of iris becomes the scent of rising dough under a sandalwood rolling pin. Each passage spreads out the orris into a more ethereal effect over time.

L’Or(ris) has 10-12 hour longevity in the Voile de Parfum concentration with moderate sillage.

This is the kind of iris perfume which seems natural to have come from the depths of peaceful slumber. A dreamy iris limned in bubbles of gold and flaky pastry.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes Tea and Charcoal- Stop and Center

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I have always had a hard time sitting still. As a child it was the one thing which my teachers had a hard time dealing with. My mother tried many ways to help me find a way to be less fidgety. One of the more creative ways and one which has stuck with me happened when I was 11.

We drove to a beautiful Japanese garden in Miami. Sitting in an open wooden pavilion was a man I was introduced to as Mr. Shimada. My mother asked me to spend an hour with him and left. He walked back to a low table which had some paper on it and a steaming cast-iron teapot. He motioned me to sit opposite him. He offered me a cup of green tea while he prepared his own. His smelled like no tea I had ever encountered before. It was smoky and reminded me a little bit of BBQ. He handed me a sheet of paper. Then he offered me a charcoal stick as he took one himself. We then spent the next hour drawing lines with the charcoal on the paper. The rasp of the stick against the surface. Turning it for thickness of lines. I was lost in the simple activity. My mother appeared seemingly only a few minutes after she left but it had been over an hour. Mr. Shimada told me to think of my pencil at school as the charcoal and the notebook paper as the parchment. This has served me well for my entire life. When I get impatient, I start drawing lines. It allows me to stop and center.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

This memory returned to me when I tried the new DSH Perfumes Tea and Charcoal. Independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is one of my favorites. I always look forward to receiving her packages in the mail. What happens about once a year is, she makes something much different than anything else she has. Tea and Charcoal is this year’s version of that. I laughed to myself when I saw that she called this an “isolation meditation experience”. Because when I put this on, I was back with Mr. Shimada.

One of the things I admire most about Ms. Hurwitz is her ability to create complex accords from a multitude of materials. The charcoal accord at the core of this is one of texture and depth that is remarkable. It is that feel of the weight of the stick in my hand and the rasp of it across the parchment leaving small pieces behind. I have been unsuccessful in trying to tease it apart, but I am even more fascinated because Tea and Charcoal is all-natural. That means she is forming this accord from those ingredients solely. The tea part is much easier to describe as there are primarily three; Green mate, Earl Grey, and Lapsang Souchong. That last one is what I believe Mr. Shimada was drinking the day we met.

Tea and Charcoal opens with the smoky nature of that on top. The charcoal accord appears soon after. For a while it is the smoke and the density of the carbon stick. It begins to diffuse into a thinner line on the page as the Earl Grey takes its place with its bergamot infused black tea presence. Now the stick is changed to produce a denser line as the mate tea adds a bite to the final phase. Ensuring the lesson has stuck.

Tea and Charcoal has 6-8 hour longevity in its Voile de Parfum concentration and is primarily a skin scent.

Most of my favorite perfumes from Ms. Hurwitz have had Japanese themes. Tea and Charcoal isn’t explicitly stated as being inspired by that part of the world. I probably think of it that way because I thought of my afternoon with Mr. Shimada as soon as I smelled it. Tea and Charcoal is one of the best perfumes Ms. Hurwitz has ever produced. It is a simple construct around an exquisitely complex charcoal accord. It asks you to stop and center upon its beauty.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Reviews Scent Trunk November 2019 and December 2019- Perfumer’s Paradise (Part 2)

As I continue my exploration of the new iteration of Scent Trunk I look at their first two monthly offerings.

November 2019 by Tyler Monk

One of the themes I will touch on consistently through these reviews is the choice of keynote. Mr. Monk launched his own independent brand called Luvandus five years ago. I have not tried any of them. I don’t know whether November 2019 is an outlier or more of the same. What I do know is it is a perfume which reminds me of my morning gardening duties.

Tyler Monk

During the midsummer days, all my gardening takes place soon after sunrise. There is a pleasure to digging in the dirt to begin the day. November 2019 captures that with pennyroyal as the keynote. Readers will know of my aversion to mint in perfume. Pennyroyal is a relative of spearmint. Except it is not. It is the dirty punk cousin of spearmint who maybe hasn’t had a shower. There is the herbal aspect of mint but there are way rougher scented edges that I am not thinking of dental products when I smell it. Mr. Monk centers his perfume around that.

That punk spearmint shows up at the start. Mr. Monk begins to develop what will become a gradual increase in the earthiness overall with the addition of carrot seed. It acts as a social worker to the pennyroyal trying to clean up its act a bit using some orange soap. Anise provides its herbal licorice which finds a lovely harmony with the pennyroyal. This is where November 2019 hits its high point. That earthiness I spoke of becomes more pronounced through the base accord of tobacco, chestnut, and oud. This is that moist dirt I dig through in the morning. As the pennyroyal, anise, and tobacco find their stride November 2019 soars. November 2019 has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.

December 2019 by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

If I were going to guess a perfumer who would be part of this it would be Ms. Hurwitz. She has always been excited to stretch her boundaries under different circumstances than her own DSH Perfumes brand. She has always been one of my favorites because I have seen the experimentation lead to something amazing. I suspect a part of December 2019 will be seen again in a future composition.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

The keynote she builds this perfume upon is coriander. Coriander is one of those bifocal spices, piquant and woody. Ms. Hurwitz expands upon both. Early on using hemlock, sage, and cardamom the spiciness is on top. It forms an accord of dense green foliage. Once you push through you find a heart of rose and orris adding a soft floral effect. The base coalesces around labdanum as leather, tobacco, and musk provide a partner to the woody part of coriander. December 2019 has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

I’ll conclude my look at Scent Trunk with the other two samples sent to me and some closing thoughts tomorrow.

Disclosure: This review is based on samples provided by Scent Trunk.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes BIWA- A Legacy of Love and Passion for Perfume

In ten years of CaFleureBon Editor-in-Chief Michelyn Camen has had an uncanny ability to find perfume lovers who want to communicate that via the written word. The colleagues I had for the first four years when I was Managing Editor through to the current roster of singular voices bringing Ms. Camen’s vision of “scented salon” to life. Different voices creating a site which celebrates the diversity of perspective about perfume.

Robert Herrmann

One of those writers she brought into her salon was Robert Herrmann. Mr. Herrmann started writing for the blog in 2016. Every writer expresses themselves differently. One of the things about Mr. Herrmann’s columns was his sense of joy. Some perfumes he wrote about reminded him of places and people from his past. He elegantly wove that into his description. I never met Mr. Herrmann but his was the kind of writing which allowed me to come to know him.

Tragically his voice would be stilled in October of 2019; succumbing to a long-term health battle. His words will live on, but Mr. Herrmann had another idea. He wanted to creatively direct a perfume to live on after him. He called Ms. Camen in the last weeks of his life. In his final days he had a specific formula along with a specified perfumer he wanted to achieve it. He would leave all of it in Ms. Camen’s capable hands.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Ms. Camen is a determined artist on any given day. When given a task for a friend like Mr. Herrmann she is exactly the person to see it through. It helped immensely that the perfumer Mr. Herrmann wanted to compose his perfume was Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Ms. Hurwitz is one of many things I cherish from my days of working at CaFleureBon. She has been a friend to Ms. Camen for years. The same was true for Mr. Herrmann. When she learned of this request, she was honored to take it up. The more complete story can be found in this article at CaFleureBon.

This is the genius of Ms. Camen’s vision. She created a community where this kind of request wasn’t a bridge too far. It was the natural extension of those who share love and passion for perfume. DSH Perfumes BIWA is the result of that.

BIWA refers to a lake in Japan where a variety of freshwater pearls are harvested. Mr. Herrmann wanted to evoke the rarity and pearlescence of these tiny jewels into fragrance. Ms. Hurwitz is one of my favorite perfumers, but it is when she is given an Asian theme, like BIWA, where her work reaches a new level. This continues that. Following the instructions given by Mr. Herrmann under the eye of Ms. Camen, Ms. Hurwitz would deliver.

Mr. Hermann was a lover of aldehydes in perfume. It is no surprise that he wanted those to be where BIWA begins. The shading he had asked for was a bit of mint. This is the herbal version of mint given a more vegetal quality. It makes the mist of aldehydes glow like the reflection of the vegetation off the early morning fog rising off the lake. Ms. Hurwitz is one of the very few perfumers who has perfected a rice accord. It appears here as if it is the breakfast of one of the pearl harvesters as they stand on the shoreline. Jasmine and vanilla scent the steam off the rice with differing vectors of sweetness. Breakfast finished, our harvester looks through the hinoki and evergreens on the shore. The first breeze of the day brings the transparent scent of the woods while removing the mist from off the lake.

BIWA has 10-12 hour longevity and moderate sillage.

The best things in perfume seem to work when all concerned are on the same page. BIWA is a classic extension of the other Asian inspired perfumes by Ms. Hurwitz. There is a serenity to most all of them. It speaks to place in my perfumed center where I am most calm. Mr. Herrmann seemed to know instinctually that BIWA was right in her wheelhouse. This is a gorgeous paean to beauty of purpose filled with heart and soul.

Disclosure: this review is based on a sample provided by DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke

Editor’s Note: All proceeds from BIWA will be donated to Mr. Herrmann’s husband to defray the significant medical costs incurred. It can be found at Indigo Perfumery or DSH Perfumes.

Perfume in the Time of Coronavirus

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I am a generally happy person. The current coronavirus pandemic has worn away at that. I like to be informed but this time the more I learned the bluer I felt. Over the last few days I’ve unplugged from the news streams except for watching the local and national news for an hour. It has helped. The other thing that has helped is my love for perfume.

To fill up the time I’ve been working in the perfume vault. I am surprised at how much beauty there is to be found. I shouldn’t be, I write about it every day. On those shelves are history lessons, trips to faraway places, exceptional artistic visions; all of which are fascinating. I’ve been allowing myself the luxury of letting scent take me away.

I have spent some of my time getting lost in my favorite perfume house, Patou. The Art Deco bottles seem appropriate as we enter this century’s own 20’s. The great Joy was created in 1925. I was struck by the way that perfume seems timeless. It is what a floral perfume should be at any time.

I turned to the Japanese inspired perfumes by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for serenity. My favorite perfume by one of my favorite perfumers is her Bancha. I usually demur when asked to name a single perfume when asked what is the one I like best. Bancha is one which is unequivocal in my affection. I always wear Bancha on the first day of spring. The same sense of tranquility and hope descended upon me with each breath I took as it does every year. It is especially appropriate now.

Alessandro Brun, Me, Riccardo Tedeschi (l. to r.)

I hadn’t thought about what a great collection the Masque Milano perfumes have become until I spent an afternoon with them covering different patches of skin. It is such a varied collection that I smelled like a pile-up on the perfume interstate. Yet there is a real sense of vision now that there are several perfumes to examine. Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi are in the midst of creating perfume which will stand the test of time. To spend this time with them has been illuminating.

I decided to go around the world while sitting at my desk. Perfumes took me to every continent all while never leaving the house.

I’ve never had the best answer when asked why I have so much perfume. Maybe I was just waiting for a time when all that I enjoy can be there as emotional support. I think those days have arrived. Perfume in the time of coronavirus will be what gets me through.

Mark Behnke

New Perfume Review DSH Perfumes Gum Tree Cabin- The Tree Whisperer

My favorite independent perfumers have different strengths. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is one of the best at working successfully across multiple genres. Even though I have many of her varied creations there are two styles where she connects with me. One is her Japanese inspired fragrances. So many of them are among my favorite perfumes from anyone. The other place she excels is in perfumes which celebrate trees as DSH Perfumes Gum Tree Cabin does.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Ms. Hurwitz watched the fires in Australia and wanted to help. Her response was to create Gum Tree Cabin with 30% of the proceeds to be donated to the “Fire Relief Fund for First Nation Communities”. Based on this she chose a uniquely Australian ingredient as the keynote, eucalyptus leaves. It results in a singular woody perfume.

It opens with an herbal green top accord. Ms. Hurwitz uses a Spanish lavender which tilts more to the herbal as the spine upon which to append rosemary and clary sage. It forms a sturdy framework for the eucalyptus leaf to take residence in. That eucalyptus leaf is not the Vicks Vapo-Rub scent you might be expecting. It is a softer leafier smell with mentholated underpinnings. I’m not sure if I’ve ever smelled it at this concentration prior to this. I found it invigorating on these early spring days. The eucalyptus leaf stays front and center while the woody walls of the cabin go up around it. Fir, cedar, and sandalwood make them up. The joints are filled in with birch tar, tree moss, and Choya ral. The last ingredient provides the rustic charm of a cabin as construction is compete.

Gum Tree Cabin has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.

From a perfumer who has been so prolific I don’t think I’ve ever smelled a perfume quite like this from Ms. Hurwitz. It is a distinct woody perfume where she uses the eucalyptus leaf to stitch together the three most prominent woody ingredients in fragrance. As part of her previous portfolio of woody scents like The Voices of Trees or last year’s Colorado; Gum Tree Resin cements Ms. Hurwitz as The Tree Whisperer of independent perfumery.

Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by DSH Perfumes.

Mark Behnke