When a perfume brand has been around for awhile I begin to think I know what to expect, 99 times out of 100 I am correct. No brand has gone out of business by giving consumers variations of already successful releases. It is a fact of life in the mass-market sector. Which means when I get a sample of a new release from a brand like Chloe I expect a variation on fresh and floral. The latest spring release for 2018 showed me something different.
The new fragrance is called Chloe Nomade composed by perfumer Quentin Bisch. His aim is to produce a fruity chypre but before he can get there he also needs to nod to the fresh floral DNA of the brand. While doing that he also departs from the formula throughout the rest of Nomade to provide a different kind of Chloe experience.
Nomade is a simple construction where with a flare of citrus M. Bisch opens the perfume on a duet of plum and freesia. The freesia is that simple spring floral which is found throughout the Chloe collection. It is next to a rich plum fully faceted with skin, tart pulp and woody stone. M. Bisch takes the plum as an equal to the freesia for a short time before the plum emerges on its own. Then to fulfil the chypre part a low-Atranol oakmoss steps up, providing more green than bite. This is the legacy of using the modern version of oakmoss. What works in Nomade is the lush plum settles into the green mossy embrace seamlessly revealing a modern fruity chypre over the long run on my skin.
Nomade has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
Nomade is a significant departure from the typical Chloe release. Once the freesia is gone the plum and oakmoss is as far from fresh and floral as you can get. It will be interesting to see if longtime Chloe fragrance aficionados like it. Also, whether those, like me, who think they know what a Chloe perfume smells like give it a chance to break through. That Chloe has taken a risk is laudable and I hope it pays off.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Sephora.