Ever since creative director at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, has taken a hand in the fragrance side of the brand it has been, mostly, a good thing. Outside of a couple of missteps I have believed Gucci perfumes have been on an upward trajectory because of Sig. Michele’s involvement. For the most part that success has come through giving typical fragrance styles clever twists through ingredient choice. What I have been hoping for is for Sig. Michele to make a fragrance which is different than those typical mass-market styles. It was what set Gucci apart when Tom Ford was the last overall creative director to get involved with the perfume side. It seems like Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur is an attempt to do that.
Sig. Michele has been working almost exclusively with perfumer Alberto Morillas since he got to Gucci. That partnership remains for Memoire d’une Odeur. I have to comment that the press release is a touch irritating because it claims that this is the first perfume to feature chamomile as a keynote. Any quick search of any perfume database will show that is a bit of exaggeration. They are making a point, though. Chamomile has a different scent profile than most things featured in mass-market perfumes. It carries a strong green herbal-like foundation which also carries a fruity component. For Memoire d’une Odeur they are using Roman chamomile which has a granny smith apple to match with the green herbal-ness. This is a challenging ingredient to put on top of a new commercial release.
Yet when you spray on Memoire d’une Odeur that is what you first notice. M. Morillas adds a bit of soft lift with a white musk, or two, but it doesn’t blunt the sharper edges of the chamomile. This is a vegetal green given some texture though the apple quality within. This is the kind of opening which is often seen in a niche perfume. not so often at the mall. With all of that in play for the top accord the remainder of the development spools out in a more recognizable fashion. Jasmine holds the heart with a more traditional floral scent. The base is even more recognizable as a series of white musks wrap around a clean cedar.
Memoire d’une Odeur has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
I am really looking to my next field trip to the local mall to observe how consumers are reacting to Memoire d’une Odeur. I think it is going to be a tiny step too far as the top accord provides a prickly character that will be difficult to embrace. Although if you are a more experienced perfume fan that prickliness is what might get you to take a second sniff. I am happy that Sig. Michele is willing to take some commercial risks as he continues to breathe life back into Gucci perfumes.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Gucci.
If there is an off shoot of the trend towards transparency that I will welcome it is the chance for the more fragile ingredients to shine. The majority of the time I have satisfied my desire for that quality by finding it in the independent perfume community. With L’Artisan Le Chant de Camargue it might be finding its way to a broader audience.
Le Chant de Camargue is the fifth release in the “Les Paysages” collection. This group of perfumes is meant to highlight a different region of France. Since its inception in 2017 I have found it to be one of the best group of perfumes from L’Artisan in years. Le Chant de Camargue does not break that streak.
For this homage to the Camargue region perfumer Alberto Morillas chose to create a fragrance around the “white gold” of the area; rice. Rice is one of those accords that is difficult to construct. When done well it is magical. M. Morillas spent months building his accord. The construction of the perfume is kept simple to protect the fragility of that rice accord. What is also remarkable about this perfume is the precise use of three of the most common synthetic ingredients to provide a stronger backbone to the overall fragrance.
Bergamot leads to the rice accord as this opens. The rice accord has a beautiful watery green effect before going milky through a powdery phase. What M. Morillas does is to titrate in exact amounts of hedione and Paradisone. These are usually powerful jasmine alternatives. Here they are used with a restrained hand providing a floral veil. The milky rice accord finds a complement in an equally creamy sandalwood. Just the right amount of ambrox supports the final accord without overwhelming it.
Le Chant de Camargue has 8-10 hour longevity and average sillage.
I think this will become my favorite of the Les Paysages collection. I find M. Morillas’ ability to provide strength to fragility as compelling as it can be.
Disclosure: this review is based on a sample provided by L’Artisan Parfumeur.
When I feel like a brand has taken a wrong turn, I find it difficult to give them the benefit of the doubt. After being so impressed with the fragrance side of Gucci since creative director Alessandro Michele had played a hand; the last six months gave the opposite reaction. Gucci went from a brand of new vision to a brand of cynical marketing with the 13-release The Alchemist’s Garden which I think was meant to draw you in with a pretty bottle so you’d forget the banal juice inside. Then this spring’s release of Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiore which still ranks as one of the worst perfumes of 2019 for me. It felt like Gucci had not only made a wrong turn but driven off a cliff. You can bet there wasn’t a lot of anticipation when I received my sample of Gucci Flora Emerald Gardenia. I had every reason to expect little.
The Gucci Flora line is the latest to have Sig. Michele re-examine it. The Gucci Flora line has been around since 2009 when the brand released a yearly version most of the time. This was emblematic of the drift at Gucci prior to Sig. Michele becoming involved. All the Gucci Flora releases were nice and safe seemingly meant to put seasonal product on the shelf. What had me excited about the tenure of Sig. Michele is he has been giving each of the older collections new life. If it hadn’t been for the last six months, I would have been very excited. Instead I worried the days of playing it nice and safe had returned.
For Emerald Gardenia Sig. Michele continues to work exclusively with perfumer Alberto Morillas. It seems like there is good understanding between the two at what they want to achieve. The most recent Gucci Flora annual releases had been versions of Gorgeous Gardenia in 2017 and 2018. Done by the previous creative team they were not stand-outs in any way. Thankfully Emerald Gardnia does seem to signify a change for the better.
My first memory of gardenia is at my grandmother’s home in South Florida. The house was filled with bowls of water with a gardenia floating on top. Those were the Glade Plug-Ins of the day. What Emerald Gardenia does is to bring back that scent of gardenia on water.
Emerald Gardenia opens with a beautiful lemon bracketed by two other fruits; watermelon and pear. The watermelon sets up this watery undercurrent that will carry into the heart while the pear finds a crispness which explodes the lemon into a sparkling firework. This leads to the heart where gardenia is balanced with lotus and frangipani. The lotus again provides a unique wateriness while the frangipani adds fullness to the gardenia. It finishes on a woody accord of sandalwood and cedar.
Emerald Gardenia has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
Emerald Gardenia is what was happening at Gucci prior to the previous six months. Smart mainstream perfume making with clever twists. I can only hope that the rest of 2019, and beyond, has more like Emerald Gardenia on the way.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Gucci.
If you catch me with a frozen treat on a stick in the summertime it will almost definitely be an orange creamsicle. Orange and vanilla are one of my very favorite taste combinations. I have a homemade breakfast beverage which is also focused on those two ingredients. When it comes to perfume it has also been a popular combination. When I received the press release for Mizensir Solar Blossom I expected another one; I should’ve paid attention to one other ingredient.
Mizensir is the brand owned by perfumer Alberto Morillas. I always mention that this appears to be the place where he can expand his familiarity with ingredients in new directions. Over the last four years he has produced an excellent collection because of this. Solar Blossom fits right in.
One of M. Morillas’ most well-known attributes are his ability to use the newest ingredients to their best effect. One of those is the jasmine synthetic Paradisone. Paradisone is the most dramatic version of jasmine in a perfumer’s palette. A little goes a long way. It also can make an impact if you just use a little. This is what M. Morillas does in Solar Blossom.
Solar Blossom opens on a fabulous duet of neroli absolute and Paradisone. M. Morillas threads the powerful jasmine in tendrils through the heady neroli forming a floral layer between the green and the orange inherent in neroli. Paradisone has an ability to add expansiveness when it is used. There is some of that here, but it mostly just finds some space to call its own. The heart matches both ingredients with floral counterparts. Jasmine itself for the Paradisone and orange blossom for the neroli. Both florals have a tiny hint of indoles within which add some texture. This is a fantastic fresh citrus and floral accord. Then for a final twist M. Morillas goes gourmand. He uses an ingredient listed as “vanilla hyper absolute”. Looking at that name you think overwhelming blast of vanilla on its way. Except what appears is a way more restrained sweet than that name would imply. It inserts itself indelibly finding the orange parts of what Is there and forming a creamsicle accord. What is most surprising is I never realized some jasmine with that creamsicle would be so delightful.
Solar Blossom has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
All throughout Solar Blossom I kept expecting to get hit with ingredients known for their intensity. M. Morillas showed me that those ingredients can be balanced into a memorable floral gourmand that smells like a jasmine creamsicle.
Disclosure: this review is based on a sample from Mizensir.
I remark often on how the gourmand style of perfume is one of the most exciting to me. One reason is it isn’t even thirty years old. It means unlike every other perfume genre it carries around much less history. I have found recent versions of gourmands very interesting because they are not following an existing set of rules. As it is in the third decade of the style the same was true of the very earliest entries, they were defining the boundaries. This month’s Discount Diamonds choice, Givenchy Pi, was one of those.
In 1998 the early gourmands had all gone with deep dense aesthetics. As Givenchy thought to enter the fray Creative Director Francoise Donche decided a different tack would be taken. Their gourmand would focus on one sweet note with less of a heavy presence. Perfumer Alberto Morillas would be given the job of creating Pi.
The idea was to make a gourmand focused on vanilla. The easy way would have been to use the synthetic source of vanilla, vanillin. One of the reasons to decide against it is vanillin is one of the most common ingredients in all of perfumery. It also can become overwhelming as the concentration gets to higher levels. M. Morillas made an intelligent choice to go with a vanilla accord made up primarily of tonka bean and benzoin. It turned out to be brilliant.
Pi opens with a green prologue of rosemary, pine, and mandarin. It carries a freshness which will eventually be overwhelmed by the vanilla. That vanilla shows up subtly at first as tonka bean is the keynote in the heart. Tonka is a natural source of coumarin which has a kind of vanillic scent profile along with a sweeter hay-like component. By itself it would never become vanilla. M. Morillas uses benzoin to combine with the coumarin to form the sweet vanilla accord. What makes this so different from just using straight vanillin is it is a crisper form of vanilla. Most often vanillin diffuses until it becomes powdery. By using tonka bean and bezoin this doesn’t happen. Which means the vanilla lasts and lasts. The light woodiness of guaiac is the final piece of Pi.
Pi has 14-16 hour longevity and average sillage.
If I were to ever write a column on the perfumes I wear which never fail to generate a compliment Pi would be one of the two no-brainers on that list. It is one of those perfumes which breaks through because of the way it is constructed. The advantage of being over twenty years old is it is easy to find bottles for less than $30. Because the ingredient list is so small it has easily weathered any reformulations. Gourmands might be all the rage currently, but Givenchy Pi was one of the first to try something new in the genre.
Disclosure: This review is based on a bottle I own.
If you live anyplace which gets significant snow, then you are familiar with pothole season. This happens as winter wanes and spring is coming in. The alternating freezing and thawing open up cracks in the pavement which become bigger and bigger potholes. They can crop up incredibly quickly. One day a smooth ride, the next giant axle-breaking craters you can’t avoid. I’ve never thought about a perfume brand having pothole season but the last six months from Gucci finishing with the recent release Gucci Bloom Gocce di Fiore sure feels like the axles have taken a beating.
Ever since the creative director at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, took a hand in the fragrance side of the brand it felt like Gucci was getting its groove back. Gucci Bloom in the spring of 2017 laid down the first marker that Gucci was serious about perfume again. For the next year that impression was reinforced as a new aesthetic was seemingly being forged. Sig. Michele was working exclusively with perfumer Alberto Morillas; this seemed like a dream team in the making. The road ahead was smooth. Then the cracks began showing up.
It started when I received a package heading into the Holidays containing the thirteen (!) perfumes in the Gucci: The Alchemist’s Garden. The press material mentioned this was meant to be a collection of accords which you could layer to grow your own garden. This is as much of a cynical kind of release as I can imagine. When I received a follow-up package with the fourteenth addition. I just looked at the entire mess as a speed bump. A giant fourteen bottle speed bump. Instead it was a warning shot because the pothole was coming.
I thought if there was anything which was going to get Gucci back on track it was a return to the Gucci Bloom Collection. The previous two flankers were part of what I saw as this creative resurgence. When I sprayed Gocce di Fiore I knew the pothole had opened wide beneath me.
The two previous flankers had taken the core ingredients of Bloom; honeysuckle, tuberose, jasmine, and iris and enhanced them with new ingredients added in. Gocce di Fiore doesn’t do that it instead tries to recalibrate the concentrations of the core four ingredients. What ends up in the bottle seems like a discarded version on the way to the original. It is a screeching white floral which overwhelms anything approaching subtlety. It made me want to go get the iris Alchemist’s Garden sample and see if I could make it better. When I thought things couldn’t have reached a lower level than The Alchemist’s Garden, Gocce di Fiore turns the cracks into a pothole.
Bloom Gocce di Fiore has at least two hours longevity. I don’t know how much more because I scrubbed it off. Sillage seemed average.
Pothole season eventually gives way to paving season when the potholes are filled in and smoothed over as if they were never there. I hope Sig. Michele and M. Morillas do some roadwork and put Gucci back on the path it was on before the last six months because that was seeming like something worth looking forward to.
Disclosure: This review is based on samples provided by Gucci.
I sometimes need a reminder to lighten up. To have fun. To stop taking things so seriously. I am such a believer in the art and creativity of perfume I can become a humorless drone in it’s pursuit. What I need is a perfume that just wants to be a solid commercial perfume. Paired with an equally fun bottle. For these dreary waiting for spring days of the end of winter Moschino Toy 2 brought some fun back to perfume.
Creative director Jeremy Scott is known for wanting to make Moschino and fun synonymous. The clothing and the fragrance arm reflect that. Toy 2 as you might surmise is the sequel to 2014’s Toy. That perfume was housed inside a teddy bear with a classically structured citrus perfume. It isn’t ground-breaking. It is a light-hearted perfume asking you to enjoy the combination of bear bottle and bright perfume. Like the best sequels Toy 2 doesn’t alter that script overmuch.
The bear bottle is back but in a frosted glass version hugging the clear flacon. It really is just the right side of campy. Before I even sniffed the perfume, I was in a better mood. Perfumers Alberto Morillas and Fabrice Pellegrin switch from citrus to fresh floral without losing the plot.
Toy 2 opens with mandarin reminding me of the original. White currant and apple provide a crisp fresh effect around the citrus. The heart is one of the synthetic jasmines expansive as a blue sky. Magnolia adds a subtle creaminess while peony continues the freshness from the top accord. The creamy version of sandalwood holds the center of a base accord swathed in fresh musks.
Toy 2 has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
A fresh citrus floral is hardly an original idea. Toy 2 isn’t meant to be enjoyed with that kind of mindset. It is more like a walk down the carnival midway. Eating cotton candy or funnel cakes trying to figure out if the ring toss is rigged so you can win the giant pink teddy bear. Or you can spray on some Toy 2 for a similar fun effect. I’ll be back to reviewing with a more critical eye tomorrow for today I’m just looking for a little fun in all the right places.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Sephora.
We are right at the cusp of the Holiday season in the US. It means this is the time of year where you call on friends and family. One of the scents of this time of year for me is as you walk into a home and breathe in you get a preview of what is coming. So many of the foods of the festive season are spice-based. As we sit in family rooms and dens visiting, we are surrounded by the smell of wood paneling and spice. Mizensir Celebes Wood reminds me of the season and the camaraderie.
Mizensir is the brand founded by perfumer Alberto Morillas. It is his opportunity to work on a fragrance where he is both creative director and perfumer. It is unsurprising that this is a brand which has no duds in it. M. Morillas can expand the sensibilities which have served him so well as the best mainstream perfumer in the world into something a touch more adventurous. The way this has been most exemplified through the Mizensir line has been his use of new materials in ways which show them off. In Celebes Wood it is the patchouli substitute Clearwood.
Celebes Wood opens on one of my favorite spice notes in perfume; cardamom. This is the greener version of that ingredient which has become more common over the last couple of years. It is joined by the piquant heat of cinnamon and white pepper. It is like getting a breeze from the kitchen on your way to the family room. It picks up some of the sweets of the season as tonka bean, labdanum, and vanilla provide that. This all comes together on top of a foundation of musk and Clearwood. The advantage of Clearwood is that much of the dirty aspects of patchouli are removed without fractionation. What remains is a warm light woodiness. Riding a wave of musks it smells like a wood paneled den.
Celebes Wood has 12-14 hour longevity and average sillage.
I have a lot of Holiday perfumes, but I like the things Celebes Wood reminds me of. Which means I’m going to be doing some visiting in my mind while wearing it.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample provided by Mizensir.
Names of things can be double edged swords. It can set your expectations higher than they maybe should be. They can also be an elegant intro to something surprising. As an avid Star Wars fan and reader of epic fantasy a perfume called Dark Lord conjures up Stygian depths swirling with portent from which Darth Vader strides with lightsaber glowing. Not sure any perfume can live up to that, but I found By Kilian Dark Lord to have some of that villain we love to hate lurking in it.
Kilian Hennessy has enjoyed making perfumes which tend to the darker side of the fragrance spectrum. It is one reason the brand is successful because he has created a brand identity around embracing those styles. There have been so many of those it becomes a bit difficult to not be self-reverential to a previous release when working on a new one. Working with perfumer Alberto Morillas common themes of the past like rum, leather, and vetiver are re-combined into Dark Lord.
M. Morillas has had some of his most successful collaborations in the niche world working with M. Hennessy. He produced Musk Oud and Eternal Oud in the Arabian Nights collection along with one of the best perfumes in the line in Good Girl Gone Bad. They know how to make perfume in the darkness.
I think regular readers must be tired of my pointing out the versatility of Szechuan pepper in perfumery. I am going to do it again because M. Morillas marries it to bergamot which brings out the fruity grace note in the pepper while also providing a shimmering warm effect, too. A fantastic leather accord comes next. This is not biker jacket leather. This is the leather jacket of a James Bond villain; smelling of wealth and refinement. A background of jasmine adds a bit of Luciferian contrast. Next comes a rich burnt sugar-like rum accord. The Kilian line of perfume has had a number of rum accords this one is scorched with a bit of brimstone to differentiate it. It all ends in a field of vetiver and patchouli as you strike a deal at the crossroads.
Dark Lord has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
As I said at the beginning Dark Lord has a name to live up to. It might not actually make me think of Darth Kilian but it does smell of dubious deeds agreed to in the darkness.
Disclosure; This review is based on a sample supplied by By Kilian.
One of my favorite things about perfume is being able to look over the entirety of a perfumer’s career. I’ve said many times that the perfumer I think is the greatest mainstream perfumer ever is Alberto Morillas. There may seem like damning with faint praise but M. Morillas has innovated from that platform as much, or more, than any other perfumer you can name. If he always worked in that sector that would have been fine. Except I always wanted more. I wondered what he could do with a bit more of a less mainstream perspective working on a niche perfume. That response came about three years ago with the release of the first perfumes for his own brand Mizensir.
Mizensir has been one of those undeservedly quiet brands. There are no duds in any of the 26 perfumes they have released so far. What has been most fun is M. Morillas is allowing himself to use some of the different ingredients from his perfumer’s palette. This really stood out with the most recent three releases; all different riffs on the classic cologne architecture.
In Cologne de Figuier. M. Morillas ramps up the green with the crushed fig leaves of stemone matched with a healthy dose of galbanum. The green is fresher than I expected, and it is matched with a set of synth woods and musk. Cologne du Mate also provides a green contrast using mate tea as the heart note adding a sharp herbal effect to the jasmine of Paradisone and tangerine on top. It also ends with synth woods and musk. These are beautifully realized but it is Coeur de Cologne which showed off M. Morillas’ skill with a new ingredient best.
Neroli has been having a bit of a renaissance as I have added more excellent neroli perfumes to my collection in the last two years than I can remember. Coeur de Cologne is a neroli perfume but it is also a perfume with a unique contrast to it; liatrix essence. Liatrix is the isolate of a plant called deer’s tongue. It has one of the highest amounts of coumarin, but it also has a green herbal character to go with the hay-like sweetness of coumarin. It is a fascinating ingredient that you won’t find in a mainstream fragrance. This is where M. Morillas can use it to a different effect.
Lemon provides the classic cologne citrus top note. Neroli is in high concentration and it comes right on the heels of the lemon. The neroli has a significant green facet. It is this which is picked out by the liatrix. The herbal part of the ingredient melds with that. The coumarin adds a sweet honeyed effect to the floral quality in the neroli. The lemon remains, adding in a shimmery effect. Then like a joss stick a swirl of incense intersperses itself into the mix. It adds more than I expected to the overall accord. A classic muscone base is where this finishes.
Coeur de Cologne has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
I have enjoyed a summer of excellent cologne releases. Even saying that, it might be Coeur de Cologne is the one I remember most.
Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Mizensir