There are some perfume brands which are happy to interact with the fragrance community. George Zaharoff is one of those. He is always available for a quote from the writers or an appearance on a video. One thing shines brightly, he loves making fragrance. He also loves talking about it. I seemed only a matter of time until he invited some of those from the fragrance online community to collaborate with him. Zaharoff Brass & Soul is the result of this.
Mr. Zaharoff calls this the Zed Creators collection. He invited three different YouTube reviewers the chance to create a perfume with him. For Brass & Soul he asked Justin Copeland the man behind Stay Fresh Productions to make a fragrance. Perfumer Vincent Kuczinski would complete the creative team.
The brief was to create the “experience of performing as a musician in a jazz concert.” Based on my experience I would amend that to after midnight at a jazz bar. They wanted a cool accord and a warm accord. One to represent the brass of the instruments the other the vibe of great jazz.
The choice of a cool accord is to make an icy gin and tonic accord surrounded by citrus. In the earliest moments there is a flare of citrus along with the bite of juniper berry. The wateriness of the tonic appears to complete the G&T effect. This is a refreshing choice that is as cold as a glass of gin over ice sweating droplets meandering down the side. The cool is tuned in a fresh floral direction as muguet adds a vegetal green.
The warmth is that sense of a crowded club. Body heat adding to a humidity the players on stage use handkerchiefs to blot off their forehead. A smooth leather and an earthy patchouli form the core. As with the top accord there are a couple of clever choices to round it out. One is bushman’s candle which is a sweet ambery resin. It has a unique scent profile especially the sweetness. Vanilla is the complement to it. It creates a deeper overall amber accord with more of the desired warmth.
Brass & Soul has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
This is the first of the Zed Creators collection I’ve tried. It has made me want to track down the other two. I suspect they are going to be good as well. That’s because the passion of Mr. Zaharoff has an infectious way of elevating everyone around him. Brass & Soul is the result of an invigorating collaboration.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.