The Oriental style of fragrance is one of my favorites. It captures my attention because it takes me to a place I’ve never visited. I am like the Europeans in the 18th and 19th century that relied on the painters of the day to depict it. In the 21st century it is perfume which opens my mind to the East. I wonder how skewed an impression I will have when I eventually visit. I hope it smells as amazing as Une Nuit Nomade Ambre Khandjar.
Alexandra Cubizolles (top) and Philippe Solas
Une Nuit Nomade is the travel-inspired line of perfume overseen by Alexandra Cubizolles and Philippe Solas. For Ambre Khandjar they collaborate with perfumer Jerome di Marino. This is a full-throated Oriental meant to evoke the souk of the capital of Oman, Muscat. Within is the khandjar the curved dagger which is a family heirloom. They are talismans against evil with symbols carved in the silver blade for that purpose. Mr. di Marino finds that metal in the heart of the dark market.
Jerome di Marino
It opens with a fabulously rich plum given a bit of lift through citrus. This is walking through the shadows of the market. Vanilla deepens the sweetness of the plum as we move further inside. It comes to a floral heart of orris and ylang-ylang. This is a shaded fleshy floral duo. I enjoy when ylang-ylang is given more space to have its carnal nature peek out. The iris is colored by that as it comes off more rooty than powdery. We have come to the stall where the khandjar is. Mr di Marino uses labdanum and benzoin to form a shimmering accord like the shadows off a silver blade. The resins have a metallic undercurrent which fits the brief. Sandalwood and patchouli complete the effect with a woody earthy base accord.
Ambre Khandjar has 14-16 hour longevity and average sillage.
Ambre Khandjar is one of my favorite new Orientals I’ve tried. The creative team really found the soul of this style of fragrance.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.
–Mark Behnke
