There is a new trend within the beauty sector to create eco-conscious products. Fragrance has not escaped this. Over the last three years there have been multiple new brands touting their green-ness and I’m not talking about the perfume. I understand the consumer’s desire to want to purchase in a more ecologically aware way. The one thing I haven’t quite figured out is why the perfume inside the bottles must be so simple, to a fault.
Obvious Parfums is the latest to take on this mindset. Founded by David Frossard who has been behind a few of my favorite brands. He asked two perfumers in Anne-Sophie Behaghel and Amelie Bourgeois to make the contents of his eco-conscious containers. I awaited my discovery set hoping this would be the brand to break away from the equation that green equals simple.
There are seven Obvious Parfums in this debut collection. They all have the name of the keynote on their label. Six of them fall into that simplicity I am not finding interesting. Une Vanille is a slug of vanilla and some musks. Une Rose a rich Bulgarian variety but little else. Un Bois is some woods and a lot of ambroxan. Which made me wonder whether a synthetic like ambroxan is eco-friendly. You’ll notice I haven’t said the entire collection is like this. The seventh, Obvious Un Poivre is delightfully different and lays out a blueprint for the future of this brand if they are willing to follow it.
What sets it apart from its shelf mates is there is a real development to it leaving behind the desire to be a solitary note. The perfumers open with a nose tickling amount of black pepper. I know this is a divisive ingredient, but I enjoy it when used well. The perfumers balance it out with caraway and baie rose. It keeps the pepper from being too raw. The caraway adds its unique freshness while the baie rose smooths out much of the spikiness. Violet comes next along with more spices of cinnamon and ginger. The violet is that sharply earthy version. The spices add to the mélange already in progress. The base is a gorgeous slightly smoky Haitian vetiver and a hint of the lemon-tinted amyris wood.
Un Poivre has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
I am being hard on the simplicity of the other six. If you like the ingredient listed on the bottle and desire to be eco-conscious in your fragrance purchases, these are better than many of the others trying the same thing. Un Poivre is so different from the other Obvious Parfums I hope it is what consumers are drawn to. That’s because this is the type of eco-perfume I would like to see more of.
Disclosure: this review is based on a discovery set I purchased.