If you catch me with a frozen treat on a stick in the summertime it will almost definitely be an orange creamsicle. Orange and vanilla are one of my very favorite taste combinations. I have a homemade breakfast beverage which is also focused on those two ingredients. When it comes to perfume it has also been a popular combination. When I received the press release for Mizensir Solar Blossom I expected another one; I should’ve paid attention to one other ingredient.
Mizensir is the brand owned by perfumer Alberto Morillas. I always mention that this appears to be the place where he can expand his familiarity with ingredients in new directions. Over the last four years he has produced an excellent collection because of this. Solar Blossom fits right in.
Alberto Morillas
One of M. Morillas’ most well-known attributes are his ability to use the newest ingredients to their best effect. One of those is the jasmine synthetic Paradisone. Paradisone is the most dramatic version of jasmine in a perfumer’s palette. A little goes a long way. It also can make an impact if you just use a little. This is what M. Morillas does in Solar Blossom.
Solar Blossom opens on a fabulous duet of neroli absolute and Paradisone. M. Morillas threads the powerful jasmine in tendrils through the heady neroli forming a floral layer between the green and the orange inherent in neroli. Paradisone has an ability to add expansiveness when it is used. There is some of that here, but it mostly just finds some space to call its own. The heart matches both ingredients with floral counterparts. Jasmine itself for the Paradisone and orange blossom for the neroli. Both florals have a tiny hint of indoles within which add some texture. This is a fantastic fresh citrus and floral accord. Then for a final twist M. Morillas goes gourmand. He uses an ingredient listed as “vanilla hyper absolute”. Looking at that name you think overwhelming blast of vanilla on its way. Except what appears is a way more restrained sweet than that name would imply. It inserts itself indelibly finding the orange parts of what Is there and forming a creamsicle accord. What is most surprising is I never realized some jasmine with that creamsicle would be so delightful.
Solar Blossom has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
All throughout Solar Blossom I kept expecting to get hit with ingredients known for their intensity. M. Morillas showed me that those ingredients can be balanced into a memorable floral gourmand that smells like a jasmine creamsicle.
Disclosure: this review is based on a sample from Mizensir.
–Mark Behnke
