I get all kinds of perfume brands who tell me what their reason for being is. Only to have them do something radically different almost right away. The promises of perfume brands when it comes to their aesthetics are surely written in pencil. Which is why when one carries through with one it should be remarked upon. Jeroboam Gozo is part of a collection which keeps its promises.
That promise was to feature the same musky base accord in every release. Creative director Francois Henin and perfumer Vanina Muracciole formulated that accord which has been used in all the Jeroboam releases since 2015. It is becoming familiar enough to me after eleven perfumes that I think I can identify it accurately. It is only most recently that M. Henin and Sig.ra Muracciole have gained the experience to really use all its facets optimally. In Gozo it is used as the complement to tuberose.
What makes it an ideal partner is the tuberose used here is full spectrum white flower. Which means the musk of the signature accord should find harmony with the indoles in the core of tuberose. Sig.ra Muracciole adds the right grace notes to create a compelling fragrance.
It begins with that bawdy tuberose out front. She uses saffron to provide a golden corona around it. This tends to make the white flower pulse with contained intensity rather than blow the doors off. Sig.ra Muracciole uses geranium and violet leaf to accentuate the greenness inherent in good tuberose. Just as with the saffron it is a subtle effect which also keeps the tuberose in check. That all goes away as the signature base accord appears. The musk finds the indoles and they do a skanky jig. It also causes the tuberose to open up, becoming more expansive over the latter stages on my skin.
Gozo has 14-16 hour longevity and moderate sillage at extrait strength.
Continuing the recent sting of success the Jerobaom signature base accord might just have found the perfect partner in tuberose. It is when that inserts itself that Gozo soars. This base accord has now become an indicator of quality when it is being used. It is all about keeping your aesthetic promises.
Disclosure: This review is based on a sample I purchased.