As I reach the end of the year I am beginning to start looking back over 2017 looking for trends. Two things which stick out was tuberose was everywhere. The other trend was deconstructing a familiar keynote. In some cases, there were deconstructed tuberoses. I will say that I enjoy the perspective of that style of perfumery, but I must admit I had been craving a more fully rounded tuberose. Natural perfumer Mandy Aftel was here to grant me my wish with Velvet Tuberose.
Ms. Aftel is one of the best independent natural perfumers because she has had years of acquaintance with her palette. What this generally means is she produces natural perfumes of unusual depth. I am always impressed at the layering she can attain in her perfumes. Velvet Tuberose is a veritable masterclass in using a keynote as the foundation from which specifically chosen notes provide new perspectives. One additional note on Velvet Tuberose is it is a solid perfume. As I have mentioned in previous reviews of other Aftelier solid perfumes, the tactile experience of smearing a thin layer on my skin is much more intimate than spraying it on.
Mandy Aftel
The beginning of Velvet Tuberose is the tuberose absolute that will be present from beginning to end. This is not a deconstructed floral this is an edifice of tuberose; solid and soaring. Tuberose absolute also brings out some of the other facets besides the central indolic floralcy. This is evident when fir picks up the green mentholated thread which runs through all good tuberose. Here it is like pine becomes the needle with which to pick out this green quality. There is a buttery creaminess to tuberose. Ms. Aftel matches it with a creamy sandalwood. As the two styles of creamy combine there is a soft sweetness which arises. Finally, an earthy patchouli captures those indoles and buries them in damp soil. None of this really develops in phases it is all happening simultaneously. It depends on where your focus is. There were times the patchouli perspective hit me first then I notice the fir and vice versa. It means Velvet Tuberose is an expertly blended fragrance.
Velvet Tuberose has 10-12 hour longevity and average sillage.
As much as I adore the idea of wanting to see the structures of perfumery pulled apart. It takes something like Velvet Tuberose to remind me that those same structures still are worth re-visiting. Ms. Aftel was the perfect tour guide to take me back to a towering tuberose which is fully constructed.
Disclosure: This review was based ona sample provided by Aftelier.
–Mark Behnke
